September 30, 2008

China Tibet Tourism-Introduction-History-2

Changes in Ngari Editor's Note Ngari, sited at an average elevation of 4,500 meters, is often mentioned as "roof on the roof of the world". Half a century ago it was still an isolated and underdeveloped place typified by extreme poverty. Today, some of the greatest changes in the history are quietly taking place there.
In the late summer of 2004, we set off from Lhasa and, after driving thousands of kilometers, visiting seven counties, in about a month. The following is what we saw there.
On Way to Rich Life
After a long journey, our car passed through the clay forest grand canyon, and came to one of the most significant cradles of ancient Zhangzhong Culture-Zada County in the western tip of Ngari. In Tibet, the Guge Kingdom existed more than 1,000 years ago. And, today, what we can see the current situation of the lives of Guge's offspring in early of 21st century.
Zaburang is under Zada County's Toding Town and is the closest village to the Guge Ruins. When we entered the village, we saw many giant poplar trees, a rare sight in Zada County.
Before 1978, these villagers still lived in caves. Since then, however, they have seen great changes in their lives.
A pretty Tibetan girl led us to the home of Neighborhood Committee chief Norjor. He has led the way in becoming rich in Zaburang Village and was awarded the title of Outstanding Youth by the Tibet regional, Ngari prefecture and Zada County governments one after another. In 1993, he was elected head of Toding Township. In 1999, he became chief of the Toding Neighborhood Committee.
Norjor said "In 1982, I borrowed 19,000 Yuan from the bank and purchased a Jiefang truck to do transportation business. Many villagers followed suit."
"Our village now owns nine motor vehicles. There are many poor households. We have sent domestic animals and food to them and have organized the village to build new houses for them. We also did something to improve the strain of cattle. In the past, the local cattle produced little flesh and the milk was of poor quality. Since 2001, we have introduced Ximoinda and striped white cows from Xigaze with the help of the local livestock bureau."
After several years of endeavor, Zaburang Village has completely got rid of poverty.
In recent years, when many came to visit the Guge Kingdom ruins, Norjor mobilized the villagers to open buttered teahouses, restaurants and hotels. At the foot of the Guge Ruins, a modern rural economic developing mode is emerging with the integration of an ethnic handicraft industry, textile industry, local food and drink, and ethnic dance and singing, so that the offspring of Guge are creating new lives in the 21st century.
Hometown of White Qingke Barley
In late August, we left Burang County and moved on along the Peacock River, reaching Sideh Village of Burang Town on the northern bank of the river.
White qingke barley is a good local variety and the zanba (roasted qingke barley flour) milled from it is fragrant and sweet. Village chief Gyiru Cering said, "We plant white qingke barley. In the past, the output reached 6,000 kg per hectare; but by means of scientific farming, the output can now reach 7,500 kg per hectare. In the past, white qingke barley was planted only for ourselves as food, but now we have a surplus to sell. The price before was 1.4 Yuan per kg, but now after processing into zanba, it sells for 3 Yuan per kg. Beginning in 2003, we enlarged the farming area. Now, the average annual income in our village has reached some 2,400 Yuan. This year we are going to establish a farming base of white qingke barley, strengthen the improvement of our cattle and increase the milk output, so as to enhance farmers' and herders' income."
In a water-powered village mill, we met Tubdain, who was processing barley into zanba .
"There are 10 such mills in the village," he said. "One mill processes 100 kg of zanba per day. It is sold not only to Burang County but also to other parts of Ngari. In addition, it is exported to Nepal."
Examining a villager's home, we found a commodious house, exquisite paintings and a huge living room with roof decorations and wooden floor, which made us gasp in admiration. A Five-Sheep Hi-fi and Haier washing machine were also conspicuous. After we entered Ngari, this was the first time for us to see a local residence decorated bright blue.
Hostess Ozholma chatted with us. "Selling Sideh white zanba increases our income and I am the first one to buy a walking tractor in our village. We have TV, telephone, washing machine, VCD, and electric butter processing kettle. Now, more than 40 households in our village have purchased walking tractors and household electrical appliances."
For a Beautiful Tomorrow
Ritog white wool producing goats that are well known in the world have become a characteristic industry producing key products in Ritog County. Its wool is both soft and fine. After being processed, it is very warm and light and is one of the finest varieties of cashmere in the world.
Given damage to the grasslands caused by goats, county government departments concerned encouraged the local herders to build a net enclosure to hold the goats and plant more grasses. Now, white wool producing goats in the whole county account for 60 percent of the total herds, and will reach 70 percent in the near future.
We drove on some 60 km and came to No.3 Village of Songshiang Deru of Ritog County. Far away from the village, we saw a herd of snow-white goats. We visited Dorje Cezhub at his home and he told us "I have more than 400 white goats. In the past, my household income was very low, but now we not only live a very stable life but also have savings in the bank. The annual income can be as high as 20,000 Yuan."
In the place where Dorje Cezhub's house is located, we found the locals who used to live in tents now inhabit adobe houses each with three furnished rooms. Dorje Cezhub's daughter was dressed up as well as any urban young girl and it was hard to realize she was a herding girl.
There are five people in Dorje Cezhub's family. Last year, the wool and hides of the goats increased their household cash income by 18,000 Yuan. This year, he had intended to raise more white wool producing goats, but the county government limited the number per household in order to protect the grassland.
Dorje Cezhub said "We understand the importance of protecting the grassland which is for the benefit of our offspring. We'll manage to grow better variety of white goats."
Well-Off Village by Banggong Lake
Wujiang Village in Dorm Township of Ritog County has ridden the reform program to affluence. It sits by Banggong Lake.
In the village, 29 single-story houses stand at random and before many homes are parked walking tractors or trucks. Most villagers were herding or farming in fields. In the cornfield to the east of the village we saw a farmer named Soinam Dorje. He told us he owned 210 domestic animals and his income from raising white wool-producing goats reached 8,000-9,000 Yuan per year, averaging 1,500 Yuan per family member. He has bought a walking tractor.
Then, we came to the house of Puncog Cering. The courtyard is very commodious. The great living room facing south covers at least 50 square meters and the floor is laid with printed ceramic tiles. His wife was cleaning the floor. Puncog Cering told of the changes in their lives. "Five years ago, I spent 30,000 Yuan in purchasing a Dongfeng truck to do transportation business. Now, my annual income is 20,000 Yuan. Last year, I built this new house."
A villager named Cering Bal led us to his house and showed us the photos of his son who is studying in a university in the hinterland. He said happily "Several children of our village are studying in the hinterland. We have three children and one of them is studying at Xianyang Tibetan Ethnic Group College. I hope he can come back home and make a big contribution to the construction of our hometown after his graduation."
Village chief Soinam Wangdui said his village had experienced great changes. Last year more than 80 new houses were built. Each family can make use of solar energy and many people work outside. More than 90 percent of the children now go to school. The villagers raised funds by themselves and established a business in the county seat. There are seven stores in the village. He also told us that on 2003 National day, the village held a ceremony of raising the national flag; six villagers, dressed in identical dotted green coats, raised the five-star red flag to the sound of the national anthem for the first time in the village. More than 300 people attended the ceremony.
Gyiabo New Village
Gyiabo new herders' village was established to the west of Gegyi Town of Ngari. Scores of houses stand along the roadside and are very conspicuous. In the past, 55 herder households lived in nomadic tents 100 km away, but they have now lived in Gyiabo New Village for three years.
Renqen, 57, is a herder who moved here three years ago.
"My family lived in a pasturing area where it snows heavily and the wind is strong. In addition, transportation was a difficulty, so it was hard for us to see a doctor and the children could hardly go to school," he said.
"Now, the children can go to school and herders can open stores here."
Renqen told us that after they moved into the houses their faces had become white, losing their weather-beaten look; it was convenient for them to see a doctor and they have become healthier.
Renqen's wife Norgar added "We two live in a room, and the other two rooms on each side are for our two sons. And there is another room for storage."
The Township chief said that people moved to Gyiabo Village in 2001. In that year, the Central Government earmarked 1.24 million Yuan for construction of houses with a construction area of 1,680 square meters, each composed of one or two rooms (with a floor space of 35 square meters). At present, there are 107 migratory households and more than 350 people with some 20,000 domestic animals.
The village is close to the county seat. Cashing in on this advantage, the villagers sell their livestock products to increase their income.
Most families have a TV and telephone, etc. Most children in the village can go to school and some of them can study in Lhasa or the hinterland.
Gyizhub opened a department store selling commodities and a "Plateau Teahouse". When we went to his store he was busy outside. His wife told us that they had operated this store for four years. At the beginning, the investment was almost 30,000 Yuan, and now the capital of this store is 100,000 Yuan. They stock their store from Lhasa and the annual income is 50,000 Yuan.
In Gegyi Town Carpet Factory, Guisang from Gyiabo New Village was weaving kardian cushions with her companions. She said "I have studied this technology for three years and have just finished the training of more than two months. Now, there are five people in our weaving group and in future we will need more people. Many weaving products were sold out and the income is considerable. Before migrating, I had never seen the weaving of kardian cushions. After migrating, my wish of becoming wealthy has been realized."
Salt Lake Township, a Township Gets Rid of Poverty
Salt Lake Township in Ngari is so rich that the locals call it "small Hong Kong". With heavy traffic, Salt Lake Township presents a flourishing scene. Entering Baisang's house, we saw his three children. The eldest, Zasum, said his father had gone to Lhasa to do business more than two months ago. They live well and have some 100,000 Yuan as annual income.
Baisang purchased a Toyota 4500 cross-country jeep not long ago, with which he gets involved in local tourism business. On this occasion, he had taken people to Lhasa.
According to Salt Lake Township Party Secretary Dainzin, in the past Baisang's family was very poor. In 1980, he started to do business with capital of only a few hundred Yuan. Later, he borrowed some money from his friends and the bank, and carried on transportation and commodity wholesale business. His family became wealthy gradually. Now, besides fixed assets, he has about 800,000 Yuan for use as working capital.
Qoiwang is a herder in Salt Lake Township who became wealthy at the same time as Baisang. He has been in business since 1983. At that time, he only had capital of 500 Yuan. Later, his business began to prosper. At the beginning, he only handled small commodities, but now he has capital of 1 million Yuan and has purchased five cars and trucks one after another. He was going to construct two buildings and open a large-scale wholesale store in the township.
Dainzin told us another more exciting piece of news that there were another eight households with assets of above 1 million Yuan in Salt Lake Township.
Xinor Filling Station
Gerze, 4,300 meters above sea level, is the largest of the three counties in eastern Ngari. The county seat was bustling with motor vehicles on spacious streets.
Purbo was putting oil into his vehicle at the Gerze Xinor Filling Station. Xinor is a herder becoming rich in Gerze Town. "I was a herder in Gerze. At that time there were three members in my family with 70-odd domestic animals. In 1993, I started to engage in a small business selling animal hides with 2,000 Yuan as capital. During the period from 1993 to 1996, my operational capital increased to 50,000 Yuan and I started to sell commodities and buy animal hides. Later, I bought a walking tractor and truck and started to do transportation business as well as establishing a filling station, houses for rent and contracting projects. At present, my total assets reach over 2 million Yuan."
Xinor invited us into his home. In his spacious courtyard stood a new Toyota 4500 in addition to large grabs and walking tractors, etc. His rooms are furnished with elegantly carved Tibetan cabinets, kardian cushions, air-conditioners and household electrical appliances.
Gerze Township Party Secretary Cering Dorje said "At present Xinor's annual income reaches more than 200,000 Yuan. In 2004, in addition to earning a considerable income by himself, he led poor families to increase their income by a total of 300,000 Yuan, which plays a good role in developing our township."
Ngadog is a herder who once obtained help from Xinor. He said "In 2000, Xinor took me on to work. In that year, I earned 10,000 Yuan. Since 2002, Xinor has helped me do business and my income has reached nearly 20,000 Yuan. Now, my family lives very well and we have a cash deposit of 60,000 Yuan."
Hope of Coqen County
Coqen County is the highest county in Tibet with the elevation of 4,700 meters. In recent years it has seen enormous changes, making it among the top in Ngari.
In the Coqen County School which conducts nine-year compulsory education, students were doing morning exercises. We saw a woman lead two children to the school. She was Riqoin, who explained "I have three children and they all go to school. I have never studied at school and have no cultural knowledge, but my children cannot be illiterate. I must let my children learn more and make them have good future."
Teacher Benqoin said "There are 70-odd students in my class who all come from pasturing area. Among them there are three children with no previous schooling. They left their parents for the first time and we ought to take care of their board and lodging."
Dainzin Gyang'a said "I am a student in Grade Six. I shall study well and strive to go to middle school in the hinterland."
Soinam Toinzhub said "I come from Daqoin pasturing area. After going to school I have learned much knowledge that could not be obtained at home. I have four brothers and sisters who are all going to school."
Teacher Cering once studied in this school and finished his middle school and college study in the hinterland before returning here to serve as a teacher. He hoped he could make more children of herders learn more knowledge through his efforts.

No comments: